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SUMMARY Plants synthesize an array of volatile compounds, many of which serve ecological roles in attracting pollinators, deterring herbivores, and communicating with their surroundings. Methyl anthranilate (MeAA) is an anti‐herbivory defensive volatile responsible for grape aroma that is emitted by several agriculturally relevant plants, including citrus, grapes, and maize. Unlike maize, which uses a one‐step anthranilate methyltransferase (AAMT), grapes have been thought to use a two‐step pathway for MeAA biosynthesis. By mining available transcriptomics data, we identified two AAMTs inVitis vinifera(wine grape), as well as one ortholog in “Concord” grape. Many angiosperms methylate the plant hormone salicylic acid (SA) to produce methyl salicylate, which acts as a plant‐to‐plant communication molecule. Because theCitrus sinensis(sweet orange) SA methyltransferase can methylate both anthranilate (AA) and SA, we used this enzyme to examine the molecular basis of AA activity by introducing rational mutations, which identified several active site residues that increase activity with AA. Reversing this approach, we introduced mutations that imparted activity with SA in the maize AAMT, which uncovered different active site residues from those in the citrus enzyme. Sequence and phylogenetic analysis revealed that one of theVitisAAMTs shares an ancestor with jasmonic acid methyltransferases, similar to the AAMT from strawberry (Frageriasp.). Collectively, these data demonstrate the molecular mechanisms underpinning AA activity across methyltransferases and identify one‐step enzymes by which grapes synthesize MeAA.